Anthony’s

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport – Central Terminal • 17801 International Blvd. Seattle, WA 98158 •  (206) 431-3000anthonys.com

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If you need a bite to eat in the Seattle Airport look no further than Anthony’s. Not that you could look any further, because the facade of this place is so massive it’s almost impossible to see around it. But as sprawling as this restaurant is, this juggernaut still manages to pack ‘em in. Not an empty seat in the palatial dining room. But fear not, because this place turns over its wait list like a famine is coming. And yet somehow the service doesn’t suffer either, well, at least not in terms of speed. You’ll have to take a rain check on the warm and fuzzies though, because this waitstaff is all business. And so is the kitchen, spitting out plate after plate like a well-oiled fish taco machine.

And those tacos (pictured) are actually pretty darn good. We split the grilled Mahi and the blackened halibut and both were solid. Two tacos per order (on a corn or flour tortilla depending on which you fancy) with sizable slabs of fish in them. No skimping here. I also recommend adding avocado and salsa, not to mention Tabasco sauce. They’re not viscerally wow inducing, but for an airport, you’d have to be a heartless bastard not to be impressed.

Our waitress was strong with the upsell as well, convincing me to bite on the lure of a New England clam chowder cup (because let’s be serious for a second, Manhattan style isn’t even an option). The soup was surprisingly good. The clam really popped through the cream, as did the other seasonings, making it one of the better cups I’ve had, especially being that I was so far from the homeland.

Upselling me again (either she was really good, or I’m really easy), I also bit on their old fashioned strawberry shortcake, which proved to be excellent. The shortcake struck that perfect balance between crunchy and moist, and the local Washington strawberries were bursting with fresh-picked flavor. Even the cream was spot on. Clearly homemade and not overly sweet. It might just be the best strawberry shortcake I’ve ever had. I know, I’m conflicted about it too.

And last but not least, the prawn Bloody Mary was tall, spicy, Ketel One-y and prawny. Just the way I like it. The spicy tomato concoction almost acting as cocktail sauce for the prawn garnish.

An all-around impressive, airport food showing Anthony. Bravo sir. Bravo. Consider the below a very strong three.

3 teeth

Grand Central Oyster Bar

Grand Central Station89 E 42nd St. New York, NY 10017 •  (212) 490-6650 • oysterbarny.com
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To quote someone on Yelp “Anyone giving this place a bad review must be incredibly difficult to please!” Well, guilty as charged Susan M. from Philadelphia (the culinary mecca of the world). But, to be fair, perhaps it is you who is easy to please. I mean yes, the space is unique and expansive, with history oozing out of its arched tile ceiling. And sure, it might be good for people watching. Even the service, as you stated, is pretty good. But considering that it is a restaurant, and a restaurant’s primary purpose of existence is to create food, than one can only give so much credence to the former. And thus, my issues lie with the latter.

Let’s start with its namesake offering, the oysters. Sure they have scads of them, but oysters are really only as good as their sourcing so let’s not sprain anything patting them on the back for picking the right fisherman. I mean, apart from shucking, the only other thing they could take credit for are the accoutrements, and sorry to say it, but they aren’t particularly special.

And speaking of special, nothing else is either. The lobster rolls are just okay and the New England clam chowder tastes on par with something you might expect from a diner in New Jersey. But  I suppose one can only ask so much from a seafood joint located inside a train station. Then again, when they’re charging the kind prices they do, you’d like to think you’re getting your money’s worth, not just subsidizing their rent.

2 teeth