Le Moulin de Mougins

1028 ave Notre-Dame de Vie 06250 Mougins, France • 04.93.75.78.24 • moulin-mougins.com

le-moulin-de-mougins

Moulin just might be the easiest three Michelin Star restaurant to get a reservation at in the world. We’re talking 24 hours notice on a Friday night kinda easy. Suspiciously easy. Like as in “is this place really as good as they say?” cause if it were, shouldn’t it be harder to get a table? Or is it simply the fact that Cannes goers don’t even have it on their radar? Thinking it’s too far or too expensive, neither of which are true.

Inside the décor is lovely with exposed parts of an antique mill poking through the walls here and there. However, the garden is truly the place to be, set on multiple levels with beautiful flowers triangulating every table. My one gripe would be on the lighting system, a lamp at the table’s center with the cord cutting across the top, dangling over one side. Can’t a brother get a candle up in this bitch? Or drill a hole in the center of the table and run the cord through? Or what about cordless lighting? Or overhead? I know I seem really distracted right now by something so seemingly trivial, but drawing even more attention to this problem was the fact that the lamp was attracting a horde of flies, which doesn’t exactly make for the most aesthetically pleasing centerpiece in the world. But dropping the subject since I can tell you’re annoyed, let’s get on with the review…

At the onset, things definitely started off cold, both figuratively and literally. The cold soup amuse bouche was so unimpressive I didn’t even bother to finish it, which had me nervous for a spell, but then a second amuse bouche hit the table and this one was very good. A spinach, bacon and cheese dip that when combine with their fresh baked fig bread was like a ballet of savory and sweet.

After that the hits were fast and furious with all three appetizers killing it! The seared foie gras with cherry compote and marinated slivers of cherry was excellent. As was the spider fish stuffed zucchini blossom and the asparagus risotto.

The two entrees I tried both rocked it as well. The duck, while served in an inventive, tubular presentation, was regrettably a touch on the dry side, but because it came with the dreamiest Ultimate mashed sweet potatoes, whipped into silk, this sidekick swooped in like Robin to its Batman, handily saving the day (and the dish).

Opposite the duck, the other main course was a moist, citrusy sea bass packed with favor and a touch of sweetness, also made special by it’s companion, an earthy black rice, that when placed together on the same fork was like a happy marriage between land and sea. Which, in a lesser-known ruling that the Supreme Court also legalized last week along with same-sex marriage.

Sadly desserts had the weakest showing of the night (other than the cold soup). The lemon tart was flat out terrible. The macaroon was okay and the chocolate, espresso tart was an imperceptible notch above the macaroon.

But all in all, one of the best means to be had in Cannesland. It’ll make you happier than winning a Grand Prix. Well, almost.

4 teeth

The Ultimate Risotto

elkmeatloaf

Risotto is like the caviar of pasta. And yes, I’m aware that it’s actually rice, but it tastes more like pasta and this is my blog, so drop it. Now as I was saying, it’s awesome. So rich and creamy and artery clogging- and easy to fuck up. I have had more poorly cooked risotto dishes in restaurants than any other dish in existence. At restaurants all up and down the hoity-toity scale. And it saddens me that one of the best places to ever make it in the world is no longer open for business. Fraiché in Los Angeles (RIP). Fortunately, the other one is.

L’Affable – Cannes, FR

Now they don’t always have it on the menu, but if they do, order it. I don’t care what’s in it, just order it. Even if you’re allergic to it. Pop a pill or get 911 ready to go on speed dial. It’ll be worth it. Not just because it is cooked masterfully, but because the chef pulls a richness out of it that is incomparable to anything you’ve ever had, regardless of what’s in it. It could be a simple asparagus risotto and I swear you’ll find it every bit as substantial as pork belly or short ribs. Part of his secret is the beef stock he uses. The other secret is that he’s a really phenomenal chef. So next time you’re in Cannes, down on your luck because you didn’t win anything at the award show, order a bowl of his risotto and you’ll forget all about those silly trophies.