5 rue Lafontaine 06400 Cannes, FR • 04 93 68 02 09 • http://www.restaurant-laffable.fr
I have been a HUGE fan of this chef (Jean-Paul Battaglia) for over 25 years dating back to his place Feu Follet in Mougins, which is no longer (R.I.P.). Well, thank God I found him again. Only two blocks from my hotel no less!
And just like his last restaurant, the décor is beautiful. However, this time, rather than quaint and old world French, it’s much more modern, in a tasteful way that balances warmth with minimalist lines. The service was also the best we had during our stay in Cannes. Warm and friendly. Which is rare in these parts.
But the food- Simply perfection. I mean nobody does risotto like this chef. Maybe Fraîche in LA (R.I.P.), but apart from that, he’s in a class by himself. I think one of his tricks must be in the beef stock. It makes the risotto so rich and savory, my mouth is literally soaking my keyboard in fond memories right now. And the thing is, he even uses it even on a veggie risotto, giving vegetables the gravitas of a buttery steak.
For my other course, I had seared foie gras- obviously eating healthy that night. Now, here would be my one nit, and it’s a small one, because while it was still great… it was only just “great.” Not phenomenal. Which is the level I’ve come to expect from Jean-Paul (yes, we’re on a first name basis). So what was missing? Well, it didn’t have an inventive preparation, which runs rampant on this menu. Not even the presentation of it rose to the level of everything else, and presentation is this guy’s forte. Like the Steve Jobs of plating. But it is still foie gras, after all, so I can only complain so much.
And last but not least a Grand Marnier soufflé so light and airy I felt like I was flying. Well, it was that or the wine. But whatever it was, it was manifique!
Definitely my new favorite place in Cannes.